Mercado de Vallehermoso – Madrid’s perfect neighbourhood food market

One of the first things I fell in love with about Spain was the abundance of fresh produce and local independent shops. Although the big supermarket chains have undoubtedly made their mark, food markets all over Madrid are still thriving. This is partly because they are so much more than just somewhere to pick up the weekly shop. You can enjoy a quick caña, stop for tapas, or stay for a whole meal.

Each barrio has its own market with something different to offer. Here’s what I love about my local, Mercado de Vallehermoso.

Built in the 1930s, until relatively recently the market had been largely abandoned and forgotten, with two thirds of its stalls shut in 2015. After being rescued from disrepair by a change in management and support from the Ayuntamiento, it’s now bustling, with all 62 stalls occupied.

At Mercado de Vallehermoso you’ll find everything from the traditional baker’s, butcher’s and fishmonger’s stalls to restaurants, wine bars, craft beer, and Spain’s only permanent farmer’s market. As well as Spanish food, you can eat Mexican, Italian, Japanese, Korean, and more. In the Mercado de Productores (farmers market) all the producers are from Madrid, or less than 120 km away, and many of the products are handmade.

Restaurants at Mercado de Vallehermoso

Washoku Sushi

For fast, fresh Japanese food at a very reasonable price, Washoku is perfect. They buy their fish from one of their neighbours at the market, Hermanos Abad, so it’s always good quality. Choose from sushi and sashimi selections, Japanese curries and rice, or udon noodle dishes. They also have delicious appetizers, including my favourite Takoyaki (similar to a fried dumpling, filled with octopus).

Craft 19

Hands down the most delicious sandwiches in Madrid! The pastrami sandwich is famous, and rightly so, but the pulled pork and grilled cheese are equally indulgent. You can wash down your mega sandwich (be warned, in true American style, the portions are enormous) with a cool craft beer. There is a good selection of beers on tap, which change continuously, giving you the chance to sample beers from different international breweries.

Sandwiches and beer, what more could one want in life?

Drakkar

If you’re still thirsty for craft beers, Drakkar has a great selection. Unlike some of the craft beer bars and breweries that have opened recently in Madrid, it’s great value. Grab a seat at the bar and chat to the friendly staff, who are always happy to give you a recommendation if you feel intimidated when there’s more choice than Mahou or Estrella Galicia.

La Virgen

Continuing the beer route through the market, Madrid brewers La Virgen also have a stall. With a brewery in Las Rozas and bars across the capital, it’s probably the most well-known independent brewery in Madrid. Their spot in Mercado de Vallehermoso is a relaxed place to try some of their beers, to accompany some tasty treats from the market.

Di Buono

Famous for its porchetta, Di Buono is a great deli serving the most delicious products imported from Italy. Sip on an Aperol spritz and try the delicious selection of Italian cheeses and charcuterie. They serve a great selection of wines from small producers in different regions all over Italy.

Kitchen 154

If you try one dish at Kitchen 125, make it the Korean BBQ ribs. Specialising in Asian fusion dishes with a kick, the stall is always busy, and everything is cooked as you order. They have a small menu, but everything is cooked perfectly, from curries, to dumplings to crispy chicken wings.  

*Kitchen 154 also has a restaurant location on Calle Ruiz 20 in Malasaña.

Güey Cocina Chingona

Ever wondered what ants or grasshoppers taste like? Güey have some seriously adventurous dishes on their menu, plus daily specials. Not feeling quite so intrepid when I ate there, I can only tell you that the tacos al pastor and guacamole were good (a very vanilla order, I know).

Mercado de Productores

Most of the food stalls on the upper floor have their own tables, where you can only eat food from that establishment, apart from Güey and Washoku, which have a few shared tables. However, if you come in a group and everyone wants to order from different places, you can find a shared seating area on the lower level of the market in the mercado de productores. Here you can eat anything from the restaurants on the upper level or the stalls in the farmer’s market.

EGG0

This is the only place I know of in Madrid you can buy a scotch egg! And if you don’t know what a scotch egg is, all the more reason to go to EGG0 because you have been missing out on one of the most delicious snacks. As you can probably guess from the name, EGG0 sells fresh eggs and a few egg dishes (including delicious tortilla), all from free-range chickens from their farm in Ávila.

La Cabezuela

La Cabezuela make award-winning handmade cheeses in El Escorial. They offer a range of weird and wonderful flavours, including la Cervezuela, made with beer from La Virgen brewery. Order a tabla de quesos (cheese plate) for 7 euros and you can try all the ones that catch your eye.

Randall Coffee Roasters

Fed up of the burnt, bitter brews at your local Spanish bar? At Randall Coffee Roasters you can get a delicious cup of coffee or buy beans to brew at home. More like a coffee shop you would see in New York or London, they roast speciality beans on site. They also serve iced lattes and cold brew, perfect for the hot summer months. If you fancy a sweet treat with your coffee, try one of the chocolate, pistachio and sea salt cookies!

Mercado de Vallehermoso has the perfect mix

One of the unique things about Madrid as a capital city has been its ability to embrace and enjoy new influences, while preserving its traditions and “Spanishness.” Mercado de Vallehermoso, like all of Madrid’s many markets, is a great example of this, where you’ll find the perfect mix of traditional and modern; Spanish and international; young and old.

There are so many different stalls in the market, you couldn’t fit everything in one article. These are just a few of the one’s I’ve tried and loved. So, go ahead and explore them all, and let me know what you think!

Mercado de Vallehermoso info

• Website, Facebook & Instagram: @mercadovallehermoso
• Address: C/ Vallehermoso 36
• Metro: Quevedo

By Ellen Fouweather (Instagram: @efouwee) 

Also read Ellen’s article on: Madrid’s 10 best vintage and second-hand shops