Madrid was, for quite some time, a cyclist’s nightmare. While other cities around Spain and Europe were busy laying down networks of bike lanes for the growing number of urban cyclists, Madrileños dug in their heels and dismissed their city as an unbikeable exception—too many hills, they said, too many cars, and nobody’s accustomed to those two-wheeled bastards in this kind of traffic.

But over the past two years, the culture has started to change. The ayuntamiento spearheaded a series of projects designed to embrace commuter cyclists, encouraging them to take to the streets that were once considered unnavigable death traps by the locals. The crown jewel of their push was BiciMad, the public bike-share program modeled on similar ones in Paris, London and New York, which was unveiled last Spring in a shaky but ultimately successful launch.  This was accompanied by a network of shared-use bike lanes slapped together throughout the city center, distinguished by a speed limit of 30 kilometers per hour and bike symbol painted on the asphalt, serving as both a safety measure and awareness campaign for honk-happy drivers not used to sharing the streets.

A recently-painted street last Fall, heading South through Malasaña. Priority bike lanes were part of the Ayuntamiento’s push to make Madrid a bike-friendly city.

While not without its problems, the program has played a fundamental role in legitimizing and normalizing cycling in the capital.  It’s now safe to say that Madrid is a bike-friendly city.  The cycling infrastructure is growing by the month, the mindset of the public has changed, and there now seems to be broad support for this healthy, fun, and sustainable means of transport.

I would also argue that there’s a more subtle benefit to cycling here.  Riding through the narrow streets of the central barrios offers a deeper sense of the layout of this city, a richer understanding of the space and distance that get warped behind car windows and destroyed in the tunnels of the metro.  It’s as if there were a rhythm behind the chaos of Madrid and cycling sets it all to the proper RPM, revealing a song too slow to be heard walking and too muddled at anything faster.

I hope you hear it too.

Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race.”  – H. G. Wells

1. Learning (or re-learning) to ride a bike

Bici-Critica, a once-a-month protest to reclaim the streets for all types of alternative transport, features bikes and riders of all types.

Maybe you haven’t ridden a bike in a couple years.  Maybe you haven’t done much of anything in years, and your physical activity has dwindled down to drunken dancing and raising toasts. That’s no problem at all. You can learn to mount a bike again in no time, I promise.  As they say, it’s just like riding a bike: your motor memory is still intact, all you have to do is reactivate it.  I’d suggest renting a bike or taking out a BiciMad and going for a lazy spin in a calm area, like Retiro or the Madrid Rio.  You’ll fall back into the groove of things almost immediately, and then it’s simply a matter of building up your confidence.

As for those who have never learned to ride a bike, there’s a bike program  run at the Matadero, the community and art space that can do no wrong. This program teaches adults of all ages to balance and ride using a safe, practical method. Even if you end up throwing your practice bike in the river in a fit of rage, you still get to hang out at the Matadero.  There’s nothing to lose.  I ask that you consider this clichéd but ever pertinent proverb:  “The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago; the second best time is now.”  Cycling is the sports equivalent of literacy, something most of us take for granted but which some just didn’t learn in their youth.  If you’ve never managed to get your feet off the ground and wobble into a steady balance on two wheels, that’s fine. I’ve never eaten poutine. Let’s not let these become deathbed regrets.

2. Choosing a type of bike

The type of bike you ride is a matter of lifestyle and personal preference, but keep the following in mind: 

Madrid has hills.  Calle Segovia, which climbs from the river into La Latina, is the perfect example of the plateaued nature of this city, but it’s far from the one.  These “cuestas” pretty much rule out anything as heavy as a cruiser (though you do see some people rocking them, whom we all salute.)  This could also make a Fixie a bit less appealing to some, though they are by no means uncommon here. My neighborhood is awash in them with more showing up every week, proving once again that, along with Edison bulbs and burritos, Madrid catches on to transatlantic trends a decade after they explode.

A trail weaving through Casa de Campo, just outside the city center. These types of trails are only really accessible on mountain bike.

Madrid has dirt trails. Some of the best biking available in Madrid is around Casa de Campo and the foothills outside the city.  There are beautiful, secluded routes that weave through those shrubby Spanish oak trees, but the rocks and dirt pretty much limit them to mountain bikes.  It’s worth considering how important this is to you, and to balance it with drawbacks that might come with a mountain bike. If you have the money or space to afford more than one type, make this one of them.

Madrid has long-distance rides outside the city. There are some great bike routes that spread out from the center which might be more difficult without a traditional geared setup.  Again, this is personal preference.   I’m partial to my classic road bike with the suicide shifters and a good derailleur (price, flexibility, quality) though again, you have options.  Fixies are sexy, good in the city, and their riders are avid defenders of the intimate handling they provide, but they might prove more difficult on these longer stretches.

Madrid has thieves. If you want to get a nice bike, or nice bike parts, be prepared to buy the security measures for them.  Your Brooks saddle won’t last a week if not properly secured. It’s best to buy mid-range or lower if you plan on leaving your bike intact on the street, and if not you should have a plan to secure your things. It’s not uncommon to see cyclists taking off their seats and carrying them into bars and shops with them.

Madrid has a bike-share program: If you only see yourself using your bike from time to time and mostly in the center, this could be your best option.  Joining the program is covered in another post, but be aware of their many drawbacks, from understocked stations to the limited range across the city.

3. Buying a bike

Once you know what you’re looking for, you should decided if you’d like to buy a new or used bike, though realistically a used one is your best option.  It just makes more sense in this theft-heavy city, particularly for the low-paid, transient English teachers that read this blog.  I wouldn’t pay more than 400 euros for one, though it’s possible to pay much less. My early ‘90s Peugeot, for example, is in perfect shape and cost around 200 euros.  You can go even cheaper.

The most common sources for used bikes are these Spanish equivalents to Craigslist:

1. segundamano

2. milanuncios

Mountain bikes are a good option in Madrid. This photo was taken in El Pardo on a Sunday ride, while I struggled behind the dirt trail on my road bike.

When searching online, pay attention to the style of bike you want and the rough frame size that fits you, which can be easily calculated here.  It’s probably best to search with the bike type (tipo), frame size (talla), and possibly the brand (marca) as the main keywords.  For example, search:  “Bici carretera, talla 60.”  Here’s some useful vocabulary when searching for a bike:

size – talla
brand – marca
type – tipo de bici
Fixed gear – piñon fijo / fixie
Road bike  – Bici carretera
Racing bike –  Bici carrera
Mountain bike – Bici de montaña

Be sure to ask about any potential problems or peculiarities the bike may have.  It’s best to go out and check the bike yourself, ride around a bit, and talk to the owner. It’s not nearly as intimidating as it might sound.  Be sure to haggle.

If you’re looking to buy new, there are bike shops all over this city, so you have some options.  This guide probably isn’t your best resource, but I guess I’d recommend a few places in the center, like FixedLand (bikes as low as 400 euros), Bicis Noviciados, and La Calmera, but there are also some specialty shops with fancier bikes and bigger price tags peppered throughout Madrid.  Do some research and look around.

4. Notes on Law, Safety, and General Advice

Things to never leave your house without:  U-lock, helmet, cable lock, rear light, front light and bike tool.

• Lights: You are required to have a red back light and a white front light after dark according to Spanish law.  It’s also just smart. when I first started riding my bike through Madrid, I was given advice by a seasoned professional to wear “más luces que un puticlub.”  You might also consider a reflective vest if you are doing longer commutes in poorly-lit areas (they’re cheap, most shops have them), though as far as I’ve researched they aren’t required by law.

• Bells: Bells are actually required by law according to most sources I’ve come across, but they’re a good idea regardless. Shouting doesn’t seem to disperse pedestrians, but bells have a way of parting crowds like the Red Sea. 

• Hand signals: Learn “right turn,” “left turn” and “stop.”  These are particularly useful in heavier traffic or if a car is riding your ass. 

Wine and biking can be a dangerous mix without moderation. Cuidate.

• Cars, cabs and scooters: Drivers have gotten much better in the past couple of years, but there will always be jerks on the road.  Don’t let them intimidate you and know that you have the right to occupy the entire right lane of a road if you so choose.  Let them bitch.

• Pedestrians: These are worse than cabs and scooters combined when it comes to bike awareness, so be very careful when they’re roaming about. They cross the street by sound instead of sight in Madrid, so if they don’t hear you coming, they won’t even look up before stepping out in front of you.  And, inevitably, it will be your fault.

• Priority Bike lanes: Frequently the priority bike lanes (30km with a bike logo) just end in the middle of nowhere, or suddenly jump over to a different lane with no warning, or let you out into a four-lane roundabout. Some cars pretty much ignore them. When you’re in them you have the right of way, but if it’s possible and safe, hang to the right so cars can pass with more room. You don’t have to, but it’s polite.

• Streets without designated bike lanes: It’s best to stick to the far right lane (without going into the taxi-bus lane) and to occupy the entire lane so that cars don’t try to split the lane with you.  Occasionally they’ll honk, but you have every right to be there. If you’re feeling polite you can pull further right and let them pass, but this is not an obligation. 

• Bus-Taxi lanes: It currently is not permitted to use these lanes on a bike.

• One-way streets: Try to ride with traffic at all times, or else dismount and walk your bike.  This city has some very inconvenient one-way streets to discourage cars from going through the center, and unfortunately the rest of us get caught in the mess.  The police have started to fine cyclists going the wrong way recently, so be very careful, particularly in on Corredera Baja right next the Plaza San Ildefonso (right in front of La Bicicleta).  It’s a trap!

• Traffic lights: If you have time and feel safe, you should weave to the front of the cars for both a better position when the light turns green and for visibility reasons. (Be careful though—watch out for pedestrians and cab doors that might swing open.) This move is perfectly legal and sometimes there is even a designated space for bikes and scooters in front of the traffic.   Aside from this, remember that you’re considered “un vehículo más” on your bike, which means you have to obey all the same traffic laws as a car.  The fine is 200 euros if you get caught running a light, 120 euros for running a stop sign.

• Sidewalks and pedestrian areas: It’s illegal to ride on the sidewalks, so do it sparingly or not at all. I’ve heard rumors of a law excepting sidewalks wider than five meters, but enbicipormadrid.com offered a reward for anyone who could find the law and as far as I know, nothing turned up.  Do not ride down Montera, the mall-like part of Fuencarral, or any other pedestrian walkway unless you are going very slowly or walking your bike.  It’s illegal and you can get ticketed (though I’ve never seen cops care too much here.)  Usually there’s a good parallel route, try to find that.

• Roundabouts:  Unlike the rest of this city’s bike and car infrastructure, I find these dangerous and try to avoid them at all costs.  Some are five lanes wide and nobody seems to follow the rules.  If you feel unsafe approaching a roundabout, abandon ship and walk your bike on the sidewalk. Remember, be a cyclist or a pedestrian, but try not to be both; it confuses drivers.

This new bike lane, cutting through Casa de Campo, is part of a growing push by the ayuntamiento to normalize cycling in the city and expand the existing infrastructure.

• headphones:  Illegal while riding, even in one ear. (91 euro fine)

• Cell phones: Illegal while riding. (91 euro fine)

• Cabs and car doors.  Watch out for these.  If you want to ride to the front of cars waiting at a red light (which most do), ride slowly and carefully between the cars, and make sure they see you.  If not, just hang back and wait for the light to change.  Both are legal.  Use your judgement.

• Rain: Rain makes this city slick. Very slick. Cobblestones, smooth white paint, big metal grates, pretty much everything is out to hurt you in the rain.  For example, I fell this last weekend after a street cleaner hosed down the plaza to a squeaky-clean perfection, and my tire slipped out like socks on a linolium floor.

• Drinking and riding: Drinking and riding is a dangerous game. Know your limits and try not to do it at all.  If you get caught weaving around drunkenly, you can get charged up to 500 euros.

• Choosing a route: Some bigger avenues have priority bike lanes but they’re not always the fastest or safest route. Usually there’s a parallel road that’s calm and just as fast. Learn your routes.

The Royal Palace at Sunset, after a long bike ride through the city

• Riding on the sidewalk: 60€
• Riding at night without lights: 60€
• Riding with headphones in: 91€
• Riding while on a cell phone: 91€
• Riding through a stop sign: 120€
• Riding the wrong way: 150€
• Running a red light: 200€
• Blowing positive when drunk: 500€

(source: enbicipormadrid.es)

While you should take all of the above into account,  it’s really not as complicated as all that. Thousands of people of all types go riding through this city every day, and the numbers continue to grow.  Get out there and join them!

Want to know more about cycling in Madrid? Check out these articles:

Electric city-bikes in Madrid, a city that’s turning biker friendly

4 Best Biking Routs in Madrid for tourists

Where to break a sweat in Madrid

A few evenings ago I was trading notes with an enthusiastic foodie friend who pointed me in the direction of Mastopiero, a gourmet pizzeria in Malasaña operated by Argentines. As you might already know, the Porteño accent just slays me. I was not led astray when I followed up and checked out the establishment for myself. A cozy and intimate space, Mastopiero is dimly lit and smells absolutely delicious.

Their carta offer a broad range of gourmet pizza variety. I like to consider myself to be an imaginative person yet I never would have previously fathomed that pulpo gallego on a pizza could be a thing. Of course when I saw that as an option I ordered a pizza that was half octopus. I asked the staff to surprise me with the other half and their creation entailed spicy peppers, chorizo, olives, and caramelized onions.

The literal icing on the cake of this experience is that diners are given a free slice of chocolate fudge cake accompanied by creamy dulce de leche to top off their experience. If it were possible I would totally have an IV drip of their dulce de leche installed into my body. The service in this establishment was absolutely stellar and I am confident that I will return soon to sample their other pies.

Looking for other nice spots in Malasaña? Check out:

Aiò, a piece of Sardinia in Malasaña

Toma Café, Fuel up, Feel Hip

La Paca, the perfect Malasaña café

Pepe Botella, a coffee place where you can think 

Naif, the king of burgers in Malasaña

In a city so jam-packed with restaurants that one could eat out in a different place every meal and never repeat, it’s saying a lot to return to a place more than once, and then too many times to count. Such is the case with Naif, a cozy/grunge burger spot nestled into Plaza de San Idelfonso serving burgers, with a side of sass. Ask for a glass of water and one of the snarky waiters will return saying they’ve run out of water, but they do have gin. Alternatively, copas of beer and wine are available for cheap and are a must for washing down the grub.

The jocular banter with the waiters, the hype that comes with having to (almost) yell over the music in order to be heard across the table, the flickering candles of the dining room, all contribute to making repeat Naif visits, but the real reason to return is for the burgers. Never a disappointment, never.

Here, the king of burgers, is, undoubtedly, the Hamburguesa de Trufa: hamburger gold. The rich flavor of truffles oozes out of the burger with every bite. La Ibérica also pleases with its hefty slices of jamón and manchego respectively. Naif has the Goldy Locks principle working to its advantage: the burgers are not too big, not to small— they’re just right. Nevertheless, they can be a challenge to eat; baskets of napkins are placed on the tables for this very reason. Don’t mind about minding manners.

A large chalkboard wall boasts nachos among the house specialities. What comes to the table is a casserole dish of chips bathing in a tangy bath of cheese, plus some avocados and peppers for a spicy punch. These are not skating rink nachos. They can be a meal in itself or something to share– cheesy fingers for all.

And beyond burgers, dessert awaits on the horizon. There is carrot cake, of course, as well as cheesecake and American Pie. It’s not your mom’s recipe, but it’s pie! Inexplicably, it lacks the bottom layer of crust, but there’s a top. Let’s not be too picky, now. The carrot cake benefits from the addition of nutella and walnuts.

Eating at Naif is addicting. You want to be there, wrapped up  in this rough and rugged metropolitan environment, until closing time. Naif can serve as the backdrop for any social situation: friends, dates, and parental visits alike. The soundtrack somehow always fits the occasion and the dim lighting makes everything seem cooler than it probably is.

Looking for other cool spots in Malasaña? Check out:

La Paca, the perfect Malasaña café and bar

Pepe Botella, a coffee place where you can think

Toma Café, Fuel up, Feel hip

Best Café-Bookshops in Madrid

Best First Date Ideas in Madrid for foodies

It’s noon on a Sunday, you have just peeled off the covers and opened the blinds, and it’s decision time: breakfast or lunch? Who says you have to choose? Brunch, combining the best of both meals, is a concept quickly growing in Madrid, and with multiple affordable options, you don’t have to break the bank to enjoy a delicious meal!

1. Ojalá (featured in the cover photo and rightly so)

Located on one of Malasaña’s narrow streets, you might walk right past Ojalá without realizing the hidden treasure that lies inside. At first glance, this café appears to be another one of Malasaña’s trendy locales, with groovy colored light bulbs dispersed around the café, and bleacher-like seating across from the kitchen, with a clear window allowing a look inside as mouth-watering food is being prepared. Head downstairs for more seating, and you will find yourself being transported quite literally to a sandbar, with sand serving in place of carpet or wood flooring. Get comfy on the lounge chairs and tables low to the ground, feeling warmed immediately by the heat lamps for added effect. A tikki bar completes the look at one end of the “beach.”

The extensive brunch menu offers a little something for everyone, and is all-encompassing, including a coffee or tea (taking care of caffeination needs), and the choice of juice, soda, beer or wine. No detail is overlooked, with fresh juice accompanied by a paper crafted straw served in a tasteful glass bottle.

As for the food, options include something for those looking for something on the sweeter side, with offerings of pastries and fresh fruits, or savory platters, including “World Mix”: organic cornbread with hummus, guacamole, poached egg, and a side of fruit salad and arugula lightly dressed, artfully served on a wooden plank.

It’s hard to leave the oasis that is Ojalá, but it provides the ultimate refuge for a weekend afternoon no matter the season, with outdoor seating when the weather permits.

2. Little Big Café

With less than 10 tables inside, the Little Big Café is a cozy spot situated in Chamberí, with chalkboards inside advertising the expansive menu offerings. You are drawn in immediately by the cakes, pies, brownies, and other assorted bakery items displayed on the counter before you have even glanced at the brunch menu. (Don’t worry, the sweets are on that menu too).

This café, with the tagline “A little café with a big heart,” is just that, with friendly staff willing to spend time explaining the menu to you. Wooden benches and tables add to the neighborhood feel of the café, along with the bulletin board with Polaroid’s of the “Club VIP” of Little Big.

The brunch menu allows diners the “Menu Cerrado,” a hearty offering that includes both a savory and sweet dish, choice of beverage, a dessert (head to the counter to survey which pastries suit your fancy), and a coffee or tea. Alternatively, diners can pick and choose from sandwiches, French toast or pancakes with your choice of toppings, or the brunch classic Eggs Benedict. The Eggs Benedict don’t disappoint, with an accompanying delicate side salad, and the pancake topping selection is overwhelming, served alongside the thin “tortitas” that won’t last long on your plate.

But the real star of the show is the previously mentioned dessert. Options vary, but the carrot cake is perfection, while the chocolate frosted chocolate cake will delight chocoholics. The best thing about the vast selection of desserts: you’ll have an excuse to return and try them all.

3. Martínez Bar

For those who have given up on finding any resemblance of a bagel in Madrid, wander over to Martinez on Sundays for a gourmet Bagel Brunch at a reasonable price. Soft jazz greets you as you enter Martinez, followed by mouth-watering smells you’ll find yourself hoping are coming to your table. The aesthetically simple design of Martinez has an antiquated feel reminiscent of times past, and the small tables lining the restaurant make it an ideal destination for smaller groups.

Start off with a fresh orange or grapefruit juice, and then dive into the bagel selection. Bagels are served with a variety of accompaniments, including the salmon and cream cheese, hummus, or goat cheese and marmalade. The warm, freshly toasted bagel is presented on round wooden boards, with the option of a supplemental Bloody Mary or Mimosa to complement your meal. The bagel toppings are not overpowering, and allow diners to enjoy the simplicity of the bagel below at the same time.

The brunch concludes with a coffee of tea, and one of Martinez’s fresh desserts. The cheesecake, topped with a berry jam and a perfectly thick graham cracker crust is a guilty pleasure to be enjoyed slowly. Other dessert options include a brownie, carrot cake, or apple tart.

The simplicity of Martinez’s Bagel Brunch is what makes it so enjoyable-minimal ingredients allow diners to enjoy fresh flavors without any unnecessary additions. 

4. Carmencita Bar

Located on an unassuming street in Malasaña, Carmencita is anything but ordinary. Reservations are a must here, and you might even find yourself out of luck if you dare call past Thursday for the coming weekend. A popular expatriate hangout, you will hear a fair amount of English spoken here, and the restaurant offers a language exchange on Tuesday evenings starting at 9pm.

You can’t mention Carmencita without talking about the 1€ mimosa. Little hair of the dog never hurt anyone! You can treat yourself to one (or two, who’s counting?) without putting a dent in your wallet.

The brunch plates include Huevos Rancheros, Eggs Benedict, French Toast, and the “American Plate” complete with fried egg, sausage, bacon and hash browns. The fixed price brunch menu is generous: Eggs Benedict with your choice of salmon, avocado, or bacon, your preferred side (hash browns, potatoes, or salad), dessert of the day, coffee and mimosa.

The hollandaise sauce can be a bit excessive, but by the time you get to the hash browns you will have forgotten; these crispy potatoes are beyond compare, and a rare find in Madrid at that.

If you find yourself still having room left for a bit of dessert, you can’t go wrong with the dessert of the day. The fluffy cakes are featured on the counter of this small restaurant, so you will be tempted throughout your meal. Finishing the last sips of your mimosa you might find yourself already planning your next trip to Carmencita.

La Gringa (Carmencita Bar’s sister restaurant a few doors down)

Carmencita Bar has a sister location right down the street called La Gringa that serves the same delicious brunch. When it’s not holding brunch, it’s a fun Mexican restaurant that organizes language exchanges and offers great deals on Mexican beers, cocktails, tacos, burritos and micheladas. Here’s a sneak peak of their brunch menu, filled with a variety of burgers, egg dishes and of course, mimosas and bloody marys.

5. The Toast Café

From the hanging light bulbs encased in mason jars to the freshly squeezed orange juice served in champagne flutes, The Toast is an Instagrammer’s paradise, and will satisfy your grumbling stomach too. Just one street over from the Little Big Café, The Toast is nearly always full of content diners lingering over the tasty two course brunch (coffee or tea and juice included) offered on weekends.

Start off with a generous Bloody Mary as you consult the comprehensive brunch menu. The first plate options include pancakes, tostada, salad with light vinaigrette, or a croissant.

The fluffy pancakes don’t disappoint, while the mixed greens salad is artfully topped with fresh vegetables.

The first course is just a warm-up for the second plate options: the obligatory Eggs Benedict, Huevos Rancheros, Breakfast Burrito, omelet, or salmon bagel.

The breakfast burrito is complemented with guacamole, pico de gallo, while the filling inside surprises with potatoes.

The Toast is a popular weekend destination, so make sure to reserve a table ahead of time, so that the toughest decision will be whether to top your Eggs Benedict with salmon, avocado, or bacon!

By Meredith Parmalee

Ciento y Pico Market is celebrating its 15th edition this weekend. If you are into fashion and furniture then this is the place for you — 16 brands of young designers are waiting for you.. are you going to miss it?

If you frequently find yourself in Malasaña, it will only be a matter of time before the bocadillos in the window of Greek and Shop seduce you into a Grecian gastronomical experience. They’re displayed so darn nicely and no matter what time of day – or night – they never fail to look appetizing.

Located in the heart of hipsterville (i.e. the barrio of Malsaña), Greek and Shop offers an array of Greek specialities in a bright, metropolitan locale. Take your pick from the bevy of options scrawled on the chalkboard behind the register. Here you’ll find the likes of moussaka, gyros, and bocadillos filled with foodstuffs of the Mediterranean.

Plump chunks of chicken spiced with curry make up the meat of the Andros bocadillo (no pun intended), pictured above. Warm cheese and spicy arugula make it complete, and juicy sun-dried tomatoes impart a delectable tanginess. The hearty seed bread gives the sandwich the overall impression of wholesomeness. Reasonably priced at 3.50€, the bocadillo is filling, but nevertheless, you might not be ready for it to end.

Sit at one of the high stools in the store and find yourself surrounded by jars of olives and artichokes. A multitude of treats and sweets such as halvah and baklava are never uncomfortably out of reach. You’ll find that the tables are stocked with reading material if you are so inclined. Alternatively, the mustachioed passersby on Corredera Alta de San Pablo provide live people-watching entertainment.

No matter the time of day – breakfast, lunch, or dinner – Greek and Shop is bound to have something to whet your appetite. They have late-night eats covered too. A convenient take-out window opens up on the side of the shop for the night owl crowd. This may be a particularly apt time to give the super creamy, slightly zippy Greek yogurt ice cream a try. Just a suggestion.

Greek and Shop

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• Where: Corredera Alta de San Pablo, 9
• Metro: Tribunal

Also check out: Egeo, our go-to Greek restaurant in Lavapiés

Aió in Sardinian means “let’s go” (or “venga vamos”  in Spanish). Most likely, Andrea and Marcelo were thinking of this very expression when they decided to open a restaurant in Madrid three years ago. These two friends have brought their hometown of Sardinia with them to Malasaña, where they’ve created a magnificent combination of Italian food and true madrileño ambiance. It is basically an extraordinary place.

It was love at first sight when I came here with my friend, Nina, from Austria. We had a menú del dia for 9,50€ (11.50€ on weekends and holidays) that includes two dishes, a drink and dessert. They also have a pizza menu that comes with a salad, large pizza, drink and coffee for 10,50€; and a Sardinian menu with different regional dishes for 14€. On the weekends, it’s better to make a reservation.

We ordered fresh pasta with fresh tomato and basil; a salad and a burger with caramelized onions and homemade fries. Only if the pictures could tell you how good they tasted.

When I travel outside Spain, I always like to look for local spots, and the best indication of that is always by seeing locals themselves. Similarly, when I’m in Madrid and I go to an Italian restaurant, I like to see Italian patrons–to me that’s a sign of authenticity. At Aió , you’ll find people from all over the world, yet the clientele’s dominant nationality is Italian, by far.

You’ll also find a large biking community here. Users and lovers can find bikes hanging on the walls. Although they’re nice decoration, the real reason they’re on display is because they’re for sale. However, if you’re already happy with the bike you own, you can also park it here, as Aío’s downstairs area is a free bike drop-off point. 

Malasaña is my favorite neighbourhood to get a drink at after work. Thanks to Aío, the neighbourhood has just gotten even better. On Thursdays at 9pm (officially at 8:30pm), they offer an all-you-can-eat Italian buffet, called Aperaió. It only costs 4.50€, including the drink of your choice. Last night, I went with my wife, Daphne, to check out the buffet. The first thing we noticed was that almost everyone was drinking the Aperol Spritz, the popular Italian aperitif that combines seltzer, champagne, Aperol, a slice of orange and plenty of ice. The drink is strong and stringent, but a feel-good hit for summer.

For this modest price, I thought the food wasn’t going to blow my socks off. But I couldn’t have been more wrong. We were lucky enough to grab a seat right by the counter. As the waiters brought out dish after dish of mouth-watering Italian goodness, the patrons swarmed around the food and served themselves heaps of rice, pasta, salad and pizza. Although it was all good, the pasta was the star dish; it was creamy mushroom mini-shell pasta that the crowd just couldn’t get enough of.

The salad was far from your average ensalada mixta, as it came with all types of greens, onions, green bell peppers, cucumbers, apples, raisins and topped with a deliciously sweet vinaigrette dressing. This is officially the best deal you can find in Madrid on food and drinks.

We barely missed the pizza because it flew off the counter in a matter of seconds (that’s why there’s no picture, so you’ll have to go see for yourself!).

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Address: Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo 25
Tlfn:  910 09 64 69
Hours: M-F 9.00-1.30 /S-S 10.00-2.00
Breakfast: M-F 9.00-13.00 /S-S 10.00-13.00
Lunch: M-F 13.00-16.00
Aperaió (buffet): Thursdays at 20:30

Last weekend I finally got to sell the mountain of clothes that I love but just never wear. Out of the blue, a friend called me up and said I could share a stand with her on Sunday at Adelita Market, a second-hand market that takes place every month in a cultural center in Malasaña, called Espiritu 23 (named after its address), with lots of events and collaborative projects going on all the time.

I had shopped at Adelita Market many times, because I have a thing for second-hand clothes (it’s love, really). After digging through baskets and racks, I’ve always been able to find great items there, especially one time where I really hit the jackpot–a girl who was a fashion designer was emptying out her wardrobe and she was my size. I paid 20E for a bag full of clothes that I could now not live without.

Anyone can purchase a stand at Adelita Market, either for two days (60E) or for one day (35E), and you’re welcome to share the stand with a friend to split the cost. So if you have a bunch of clothes you’re looking to pass on, this is the place to do it. It’s also one of the best places to shop for second-hand clothes in Madrid. Unlike cities such as New York and London, good quality and cheap thrift shops are hard to come by here.

Since I’d always been the one buying and not selling, here’s what my first experience on the other side of Adelita Market was like:

I arrived on Sunday at 10am with three suitcases, and two huge bags overflowing with stuff. I set up the stand in the basement with my friend, Sol, who also had loads to offer. She brought the clothing racks, hangers and baskets (the center doesn’t provide you with anything but the space). She also bought a folding screen so that people could try on clothes behind it.

As soon as the market  opened to the public at 11am, it was non-stop selling and bargaining all day long. It was actually really fun and exciting, and even nerve-racking. We had no idea if we were going to sell anything or not. Not to mention, price-wise, it’s not so easy to know what people will pay for used clothing items.

Fortunately, our stand was really successful, partly because of our portable dressing room, and partly because we engaged with every person we caught peering through our items. We held up our best dresses and leather boots, showed them off, and told people they looked great in them. It worked!

We didn’t get out of there until 9pm. Good thing for the stand selling quiche and coffee. And I must say, it felt like I had only been there an hour.  The time just flew.

Whether or not you want to get a stand, or just browse through second-hand goods, Adelita Market is great. Some of the vendors are rookies, like me, and some have been doing this for years and have racked up great collections. You’re bound to find something amidst the labyrinth of stands, and even if you don’t, you’ll be in Malasaña so you can grab a beer right afterwards.

In the photo below, the lady standing on the left is wearing the Swedish Hasbeens boots that I sold her for 10E!

Check out their Facebook page where they announce the dates.

Adelita Market:

Hours: 12am-9pm
When: one weekend per month (usually both Sat and Sun, but it’s best to check out their Facebook page for specific times and dates)
Address: c/ Espiritu Santo, 23
Metro: Noviciado/Tribunal

*They’ve also started to hold Adelita Market in Majadahonda. See dates on FB page.