Lúa Vermutería, a charming new bar with an old spirit in Lavapiés

Serendipity. It’s a funny thing. My friends and I used to go to a bar several nights a week where the head server, Alberto, treated us like royalty. It was our hangout spot.

Fast-forward a few years, and I was wandering around Lavapiés with a friend on a Saturday night and we stumbled upon Lúa Vermutería on the (very cool) Calle Doctor Fourquet. We were in the mood to try something new and this place immediately lured us in. After squeezing through the crowd and making our way to the bar, to our surprise, there was Alberto!

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At 56 years old, Alberto is now the owner of this new venture which he named after his daughter, Lúa (meaning “moon” in Galicia, where he’s from). And he took the head chef, Rosa, from the former bar along with him.

Although they completely gutted and refurbished an old night club, today Lúa Vermutería looks like a traditional taberna that underwent a high-quality facelift. It has an old-fashioned feel to it, with high tables and stools set out in the front, and just a handful of sit-down tables in the back.

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Lúa Vermutería is located on a street that’s full of new art galleries and trendy shops in the ever-changing neighborhood of Lavapiés. That’s why it stands out for its charming and classic vibe. It’s already becoming a favorite in the barrio, with visits from the likes of celebrities including Almodóvar. The music ranges from soul to blues, and they’ve started showcasing exhibits from local artists.

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As for the drinks, you’ll find Zecchini vermouth on tap and a list of Spanish wines and beers. Of course, each round comes with a complementary tapa. The menu features homemade Spanish dishes, along with a number of modern and vegetarian options. For lunch, you can also order the daily special: a €5 plato de cuchara (usually a hearty stew), such as lentils, cocido, or la olla gitana (pictured below).

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So far we’ve ordered the entraña (steak), tacos de bonito (tuna slices over black pasta with cuttlefish and alioli), and the pisto manchego on toast.

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Everything was absolutely delicious. The steak was cooked perfectly and came with patatas bravas, one of the house specialties. Alberto also treated us to a side of caramelized onions prepared with vermouth – it was so sweet and so good.

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The Italian-inspired pasta mixed with alioli and tuna was a burst of different textures and flavors. It’s one of Lúa’s star dishes that came highly recommended by Alberto.

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And my favorite was the pisto – a slice of toast topped with a heaping portion of freshly cooked vegetables that tasted even better once the yolk from the fried egg spilled all over it.

It was wonderful to see Alberto there after so many years. We’ll definitely be back again and again.

Lúa Vermutería

  • Facebook
  • Instagram: @lua_vermuteria
  • Address: Doctor Fourquet, 28
  • Metro: Embajadores or Lavapiés
  • Phone: 637 65 27 51



Toscanaccio, gourmet Italian takeaway in Lavapiés

Toscanaccio is a cute little Italian bakery and pizzeria situated on a side street in Lavapiés, opened a year and a half ago by Guillermo (Madrid) and Federico (Siena). Out of their small kitchen and sole oven comes authentic homemade bites from Tuscany, all lovingly crafted on site, from scratch and with prime ingredients.

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While you’d think the creators of Toscanaccio hailed from a long line of Italian bakers, their story is rather unexpected. Guillermo and Federico met over a decade ago while studying in London, and have since travelled and lived around the world, always picking up new skills and game for new adventures along the way.

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Neither of them had planned on opening an Italian bakery. That is, until a few years ago when they decided to set out on a new venture in Madrid: a Tuscan-inspired takeaway joint in Lavapiés.

Before opening, they spent months training with a señor who’s been hand-crafting authentic Italian baked goods for over 40 years. After learning from the best, they found a place and refurbished it practically by hand. And here they are!

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Toscanaccio fits perfectly into the already diverse and eclectic neighborhood of Lavapiés, full of charming gems and surprises scattered throughout its sloping, winding streets.

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When you step into Toscanaccio, you’ll immediately see a tempting display of prepared foods. Options range from savory bites like pizza, focaccia, calzoni, and ciaccino ripieno (sandwiches typical of Tuscany) to a wide selection of traditional cookies, cakes and pastries like crostatines, tarta de la nonna, and panello de uva. Depending on the day, you may even find brownies and carrot cake.

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The ciaccino filled with brie, arugula and pesto is my new favorite go-to snack. 

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There’s also an assortment of homemade breads, with an additional daily special. Today’s was pan de calabaza (pumpkin bread). All the dough is made with different types of organic wheat, rye and spelt flour, made right here in the kitchen, in plain sight.

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The space is quite tiny, but it’s all you need. If you want to sit, there are only two stools and a bench outside. Otherwise, it’s best to order to go. Luckily their hours are quite accommodating: they open from 11am-11:30pm every day, and until 3:30am on Fridays and Saturdays. Tuesday is their day off.

So thanks to these two guys, we’ve now got the perfect place to grab a delicious Italian bite on the go, almost any day of the week.

Toscanaccio

  • Facebook
  • Instagram: @toscanaccio_
  • Address: Calle de la Fe 16
  • Metro: Lavapiés
  • Phone: 912974729
  • Hours:
    • Monday through Thursday 11:00 AM – 11:30 PM
    • Fridays and Saturdays open till 3:30 AM
    • Closed on Tuesdays

 




Café Viralata – craft beer, delicious sandwiches, and live music

Jay (Dominican) and Selvi (Italian) are a music-loving couple who decided to put their passion for art and craft beer to good use: in June 2018, they opened Café Viralata in Lavapiés.

While it may be a new bar (with killer decor), it has nothing to do with the wave of pricey hipster joints that has flooded the neighborhood in recent years. No, señor, this place has some very simple raisons d’etre: good music, good food, and good vibes at more-than-reasonable prices.

The facade piques the interest of passersby with some sassy paintings of doggos (thanks to @ramon_amoros_ilustrador) and a blackboard announcing the bar’s upcoming events (more on that later).

Café Viralata by Naked Madrid

Once inside, we start with what’s important: beer! You’ve got everything from your classic Estrella Galicia to impressive local IPAs. They’ve been working closely with the local brewer community, specifically the guys at Abeerzing, to learn more about “el mundo cervecero.” So the beer list is constantly growing and changing.

Café Viralata is also the first bar in Madrid to serve Beertag, a brand new beer from La Rioja brewed by Slezia Albino, one of Jay’s oldest friends in Madrid from film school.

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As for wine, they of course offer Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Verdejo, and Albariño, but they also recommend wines from Madrid, Alicante, Catalunya, Portugal, and Italy, and their “tinto de verano” is actually made with an Australian wine. As Jay says, if you’re a purist, you’ve really gotta keep an open mind here.

Once you’ve got your drink, you’ll probably want something to snack on (if you give a mouse a cookie…). Café Viralata goes way beyond your typical tortilla and olives.

Get started with appetizers like the hummus plate and the avocado toast, and if you’re looking for something more substantial, go for one of their sandwiches, which are made with love on fresh sourdough bread from the folks at bakery Madre Hizo Pan.

A house favorite is “La Piernotta,” a Dominican-Italian version of the typical Dominican “sandwich de pierna” with porchetta (Italian, roasted, oven-baked pork) with smoked scamorza cheese, green peppers, and red onions.

And yes, they also have fabulous vegetarian and vegan options.

Lastly, if you have a sweet tooth like me, you can’t leave without trying the homemade tiramisu, lovingly crafted by @lacucinadicarlo (who also provide their pastrami).

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Once you’ve got your food and drink sorted, head to the back of the bar to check out what makes this place truly special: an intimate venue, complete with a piano (that Selvi’s mom sent them from Italy!), guitars, a projector, two rows of chairs (I said intimate!), and lots of vinyl records to thumb through.

This space offers anything from live acoustic concerts to independent film screenings, theater, micro-theater, poetry readings, spoken word, stand-up comedy, magic shows…

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It just doesn’t get much better than that.

Oh, and if you’re wondering what “viralata” means, this is what Jay had to say about it:

In the Dominican Republic, and also in Portuguese-speaking countries such as Brazil, a ‘VIRALATA’ is what a stray dog and/or any animal or person of mixed race is called. ‘VIRAR’ means ‘TO TURN’ and ‘LATA’ means ‘CAN’, a reference to the way that strays ‘turn cans’ while searching for food; in our café, though, we’re strippin’ away any negative aspect that surviving and struggling through life may have in our modern society. The struggle is real and it makes us better people! So turn cans, dear viralatas, turn those freakin’ cans!

Me apunto.

PS: Stay tuned for Café Viralata’s grand opening party…

Info

  • Instagram & Facebook
  • Address: Calle Olivar, 17
  • Metro: Tirso de Molina, Antón Martín, or Lavapiés
  • Phone: +34 912 96 88 26



Panifiesto, a bread-lover’s paradise in Lavapiés

When I first moved to Madrid, I had a few initial goals: get an apartment, make new friends, and find a badass bakery where I could satisfy my carb cravings—not necessarily in that order. I don’t know what it is, but there’s something about bread that makes me feel right at home. For me, it’s the ultimate comfort food and the simplest culinary pleasure. So when I moved to a new city thousands of miles from home, finding good bread was clearly a priority.

Luckily for me, it didn’t take long. Soon after I moved into my apartment in Lavapiés, I stumbled upon the perfect place entirely by chance. Panifiesto doesn’t look like much from the outside—or the inside, for that matter. It’s a minuscule, minimalist space on the corner of Calle Mesón de Paredes and Calle Juanelo. The tiny storefront features a bench and a counter, behind which the fresh bread is displayed on tall metal shelves. If you peek through the loaves, you can see the magic happening in the kitchen in the back.

Loaves of bread at Panifiesto bakery in Lavapiés

When it comes to bread, I’ve learned that simple is almost always better, and Panifiesto confirms that conclusion. All they do is bread—no pastries, empanadas, or even tostadas. You can’t come here for breakfast or a drink with friends. In fact, you might not even notice it if you aren’t specifically looking.

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They offer around five to eight varieties each day: wheat, whole wheat, rye, spelt, baguettes, and gallego (half wheat, half rye) are almost always available. Some days they also have tritordeum (a grain that’s a combination of wheat and barley), seeded (full of poppy seeds, sunflower seeds, and more), and heavenly golden-hued corn bread (my personal favorite). Also look out for seasonal specialties, like the raisin, rosemary, and honey loaves they offered last Semana Santa.

Loaves of bread at Panifiesto bakery in Lavapiés

The prices are, naturally, a bit more than you might be used to paying for bread: €1.35 for a baguette or €3-5 for a full loaf. You can also buy half a loaf for half the price, and they’ll slice it for you if you ask!

So what exactly makes this bread special? The short answer is that it’s made with masa madre. If you’re as gluten-obsessed as I am, you know what that means. If not, pay attention, because this is important. There’s not an easy English equivalent for this term. The closest thing we have is “sourdough,” but while all sourdough is pan de masa madre, not all pan de masa madre is what you might think of as sourdough.

Essentially, it means that the bread is made without chemical leaveners like baking powder—just flour, water, and salt. It rises due to the natural bacteria in the dough (sometimes called a pre-ferment or “mother dough”), making it denser and lending it a slightly sour flavor. You can bake any kind of bread with this method, as you can see from the variety of options on offer at Panifiesto.

Have I convinced you yet? If not, I dare you to go to this place and not immediately fall in love. Forget about the sad, stale barras at your local alimentación, set aside a few extra euros, and indulge in some of the best bread money can buy. It’s worth it.

Info

  • Website Facebook
  • Phone:  694 44 90 20
  • Address: Calle Mesón de Paredes, 10
  • Metro: Tirso de Molina & La Latina



Tapapiés: a guide to everyone’s favorite food and culture festival in Lavapiés

It’s that time of year again. The air is turning chilly, the leaves are starting to change, and the millennial obsession with all things autumn is taking over social media. But here in Madrid, there’s a whole different reason to be excited. With October comes Tapapiés, the annual festival that inundates the streets of the Lavapiés neighborhood with delicious food, cheap drinks, and live music.

For 11 days at the end of October (this year’s 7th edition lasts from October 19—29), dozens of restaurants and bars in Lavapiés offer a very special deal. Each one develops their own signature tapa, and offers it to the public for just €1.50. For an extra euro, you can also get a botellín (a 250 ml bottle of beer) to wash it down. The event is sponsored by Barcelona’s Estrella Damm, and at most places you can choose between a regular beer or Damm Lemon (beer and lemon soda).

A bar advertises its participation in Tapapiés with the festival's official poster.

A bar advertises its participation in Tapapiés with the festival’s official poster.

Lavapiés is known for its incredible cultural diversity, with large immigrant populations from all over Africa, South America, the Middle East, and Central Asia. As a result, it’s full of international eateries offering everything from Senegalese thieboudienne to Syrian sweets. A good number of these establishments participate in Tapapiés, which means that in one night you can practically eat your way around the world, just by exploring the neighborhood’s sloping streets.

The delicious "Crepioca" tapa from Saboor Tapioca in Lavapiés

The delicious “Crepioca” tapa from Saboor Tapioca

In other words, this festival is every adventurous foodie’s dream come true. There are various strategies for tackling the overwhelming amount of options (122 tapas in total) and chaotic crowds. You can simply wander around, dropping into whatever bars you come across and trying your luck. Each one usually advertises a photograph of their tapa with a huge poster out front, so you’ll know more or less what to expect. Don’t forget to stop by Mercado de San Fernando and Mercado Antón Martín, where several vendors also participate.

A tray of tapas at Toscanaccio Italian bakery in Lavapiés

A tray of tapas at Toscanaccio Italian bakery: marinated eggplant, walnuts, goat cheese, and sun-dried tomato pesto on spelt bread

If you’re (A) a picky/allergy-prone eater or (B) determined to try as many different tapas as possible, you might want to consider a more organized strategy. Ask for a brochure at any of the participating places—you’ll get a pocket-sized booklet that contains a list of every single tapa being offered, as well as a color photograph and a detailed ingredients list for each. They’re all plotted on a numbered map, so you can plan out your ideal route. Be warned, though: it’s hard to stick to a set plan when there are so many tempting options around every corner.

Dishing out the "Moqueca de Mandioca con Pesto" tapa at Maloka Bar Brasileiro in Lavapiés

Dishing out the special tapa at Maloka Bar Brasileiro: yuca in a coconut milk sauce with peanut pesto

My advice? Grab a group of friends who aren’t afraid to elbow their way through some crowds and try as many new things as possible. This is not an activity for those who would rather settle in at a cozy restaurant for a relaxed dinner.

Expect to eat standing up while balancing a beer in one hand a a tapa in the other, and shouting at each other just to be heard. It’s messy, it’s crazy, it’s loud—and it’s totally worth it.  The frenetic and colorful spirit of the neighborhood is never more alive than on a night of Tapapiés.

"Carrillada melosa" from Maldito Querer in Lavapiés

“Carrillada melosa” from Maldito Querer: braised beef cheeks in a sauce of caramelized onion, garlic, herbs, and Pedro Ximénez reduction

To complete the experience, it’s essential to attend one of the various outdoor performances by local musicians, dancers, and entertainers that take place throughout the event. On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons and evenings, you can catch live music and shows at nine different designated spots (a full schedule is included in the brochure). There’s also the simultaneous Chollopiés festival, which spotlights the neighborhood’s local businesses by offering special discounts on certain products.

Plaza de Lavapiés on a night of Tapapiés

Maybe you live in Lavapiés and want to get to know your barrio better. Maybe you’ve never been and want to see what all the hype is about. Or maybe you’re just hungry, thirsty, and low on cash. Whatever the case, Tapapiés is bound to become one of your favorite events in Madrid. If you go into it with the right mindset, a healthy appetite, and a handful of coins, I guarantee that come next October, there’ll only be one thing on your mind. Who needs pumpkin spice lattes, anyway?

Info

Check out our roundup of Tapapiés’ offerings last year!




Plántate Café, a specialty coffee & plant shop in Lavapiés!

Specialty coffee shops are in demand in Madrid, and thankfully so. I’m sorry old-school bars, but after trying high quality espresso, it’s really hard to enjoy your café con leche anymore.

This feeling was particularly strong for Kevin, a Canadian who’s been living in Spain for eight years and is the owner of the newly-opened Plántate Café. “Everybody who’s into coffee will be able to tell you a story about their first good cup,” says Kevin. “After that moment there’s no turning back.”

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

Kevin’s first was in London at Brown’s of Brockley, and it literally changed his life. While living in Lavapiés for years, he longed for a good cup of coffee so badly that he’d bike up to Malasaña’s Toma Café every morning. When the daily trek turned unsustainable, he decided to buy their coffee beans and start making cold brew at home. Then he got a V60 to make filter coffee.

Little did Kevin know, he was slowly becoming a coffee connoisseur. “Opening up a coffee shop was just a side project.” But as is often the case with side projects, they become your full-time job. And that’s just what happened.

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

Kevin opened Plántate Café in July. Before setting up shop, he and his two friendly baristas – Antonio (Spain) and Fernando (Brazil) – went to train with the top roasters at London’s Square Mile so they could bring their skills back to Lavapiés.

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

The guys at Plántate Café are fully dedicated to spreading the specialty coffee culture done right, and proud of the relationships they have with their suppliers. They get their house espressos from three top roasters: Puchero, from Valladolid; Right Side, from Barcelona; and Square Mile, from the UK (whose decaf is said to be the best in the world).

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

Their drink menu features the musts: flat white, macchiato, cold brew, filter coffee, an assortment of teas, and more.

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

And if you’re in the mood for a snack, you can order toast with avocado, a cup of yogurt with chia seeds or cake.

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

You can also buy plants such as cacti and orchids (hence the name, Plántate Café), plus magazines and coffee-making gear from leading brands like Hario (Japan).

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

Since opening they’ve received a lot of local love from the neighborhood, thanks to a balance of excellent coffee and treats at fair prices, a friendly staff and a great ambience.

Plántate Café by Naked Madrid

So come on in and check it out!

Info

  • Instagram: @plantatecafe
  • Address: Calle Mesón de Paredes, 28
  • Metro: Tirso de Molina / Lavapiés




Mercadillo Lisboa: A fun Portuguese snack bar in Mercado San Fernando

Brand-new Portuguese eatery Mercadillo Lisboa was waiting for the right moment to join the mercado scene until, six weeks ago, just in time for Tapapiés, it finally opened up in the best spot in Mercado San Fernando. Enter through the main doors, head straight to the middle and turn right – they’re there next to the fun bar Sondelata, which sells blue wine and carrot cava.

Mercadillo Lisboa is owned and run by three pals – two from Lisbon and one from the Canary Islands. Only two of them are in this photo because the other is camera-shy – he hid around the corner.

This is a great place to get authentic Portuguese food, from a variety of quiches and the classic Pastéis de Belém, to empanadas, arancini and everything bacalao. Here are a few photos of their snack food, very proudly displayed by the jolliest of the three musketeers:

Vegetarian spinach quiche

Vegetarian spinach quiche

There are lots of quiches here

There are lots of quiches here

Empanadas and cod croquettes

Empanadas and cod croquettes

Arancini

Arancini

Strawberry cheesecake (wow)

Strawberry cheesecake (wow)

You can also buy a selection of Portuguese beers and wines (including vinho verde), plus an almond liqueur (licor de amêndoa) specially driven over from Portugal by the guy on the right. I bought their last bottle a couple of weeks ago and with it came this story – suddenly €12 seemed like an absolute steal. You’ll be glad to know that they’ve since been back to Portugal and brought another few bottles for us, but get it while you can – or I will!

Lots of Portuguese wines and liquors

Lots of Portuguese wines and liqueurs

A selection of Portuguese beers

A selection of Portuguese beers

Pull up a chair at Mercadillo Lisboa or mingle in its sphere of influence with a vinho verde and a bocadillo de bacalao. And just so you know, you’ll probably bump into me.

Info

Opening hours:

  • Mon: Fri: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm, 5:00 pm – midnight
  • Sat: 10:00 am – 5:00 pm
  • Sun: 11:00 am – 5:00 pm



Café Barbieri: A 114-year-old Art Noveau café in Lavapiés

Café Barbieri first brought modernist charm to Madrid’s working class district, Lavapiés, in 1902, and although the barrio has evolved dramatically over the last 114 years, the interior of this elegant bar hasn’t changed one bit.

Some things have changed though – Café Barbieri is owned by a charismatic chap from New Delhi and staffed with bilingual youngthings. It also now has a small terrace, but this is not why you’d come here – its appeal is truly the interior.

The whole place is lined with mirrors which back then were a symbol of wealth. These mirrors are now aging well, stained a smoky bronze colour with dots of grey rust creeping in from the edges. The ceiling is framed with grids of ornate girders that are connected to decorative cast-iron beams, typical of older buildings in Lavapiés. Although never on, there are ceiling fans too – something increasingly rare in Madrid.

At the back of the bar is a grand piano on a small raised stage. Almost every evening there’s a live music session often featuring the piano, and this place does food too – typical Spanish stuff but with an edge.

The worn white marble table tops and red velvet seating lining the dining area mark this place out as opulent, but that’s really not the vibe – it’s chilled and cosy and attracts a spectrum of people, from the intrepid tourist who’s braved it down the hill, to the unassuming local who fancies a read of one of the papers on offer.

Café Barbieri by day

Café Barbieri by day

Café Barbieri's beautiful ornate cieling

Café Barbieri’s beautiful ornate ceiling

The grand piano taking centre stage, and look at all those beautiful mirrors

The grand piano taking centre stage, and look at all those beautiful mirrors

Look at that original tiled floor!

Look at that original tiled floor!

The bar has a great selection of spirits & vermouth on tap

The bar has a great selection of spirits & vermouth on tap

Café Barbieri by night

Café Barbieri by night

Café Barbieri is also on the same street as the Greek foodie place, Egeo, so there you have it, your night is planned!

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Pum Pum Cafe, a new Lavapiés coffeeshop and weekend brunch spot

Situated on C/ Tribulete, 6 is the new establishment Pum Pum Cafe. It was brought to my attention by the charismatic Jordan, well known by the coffee-lover community for his tenure as a barista at the popular Toma Cafe in Malasaña. The tastefully exposed brick pattern of the wall is a remnant of the conversion process from the butcher shop that previously occupied the space. I’m always keen on discovering new cafes to perch with my laptop. One can easily foresee this business becoming another thriving watering hole in the barrio.

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Pum Pum stands out amongst the competition for its breakfast/brunch offerings: a splendid eggs benedict and avocado tostada, an assortment of healthy juices, baked goods and organic products. Their mission is to offer breakfast at all hours of the day as to not discriminate against those who wake up at 5pm after a rowdy night. Aficionados of coffee will be as thrilled as I was to see that Pum Pum is equipped to prepare V60 and chemex filter coffees. 

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The owner Papo is from Argentina, his brother Dam operates the kitchen, barista Jordan hails from Australia and the cafe manager Ira is from Ukraine. Papo has an adorable and well behaved infant son who can be seen on site at the weekend. Their hours during the week are 9am-9pm and their weekend brunch hours are 10am-9pm. This location is strongly recommended to any lovers of coffee and breakfast.

Photo: Steph Gutovska

Photo: Steff Gutovska

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Courage on the corner: a window into the life of a Senegalese migrant and Baye Fall culture

Barrio Lavapiés can be personified by its many smells: the Indian curries and scents escaping from the ethnic restaurants and the grit of the infrequently cleaned streets. Least subtle of all is the lingering scent of weed and hash smoked by entrepreneurial gentlemen on the corner, who actively solicit the business of passersby. People of all ages congregate and botellón when the weather allows it. There is a strong sense of community here among the international and local residents. In recent years the neighborhood of Lavapiés has become trendy and has been slowly undergoing the inevitable gentrification process.

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I was moved by a Vice documentary titled “Storming Spain’s Razor-Wire Fence” that depicts the odyssey undertaken by many African migrants in their attempts to enter mainland Spain via the border shared between Morocco & Ceuta y Melilla. The documentary provided a brutal window into their journeys but didn’t go into any detail as to how those who had succeeded would go on to assimilate. My curiosity was piqued as to potential stories that could be shared by my neighbors in Lavapies if they were granted an adequate platform to do so.

Baobab, an authentic Senegalese Restaurant in lavapiés by Naked Madrid

My close friend Kam “El Profesoul” accompanied me as my barrio ambassador; together we scoured the block, my notebook in hand as we searched for subjects to interview. As an active musician and long-term resident of the neighborhood, Kam has befriended many members of the African community. One such friend of Kam’s was responsive to my interview request and invited us to join him and his crew on the smoky stairs where they were strategically perched. Moha, a bearded African with dignified posture, kept his eyes hidden behind yellow plastic sunglasses. In the background was Zikr music from Senegal playing softly. Moha and his companions identify themselves as Baye Fallsa sub-group of the Mouride Brotherhood that is prominent in Senegal. The ensuing conversation took place in Spanish with my notes taken in English.

My interview with Moha

Naked Madrid Lavapiés interview

Where are you from? Do you feel at home here?

I am from Senegal and I am grateful to be a documented resident of Spain for five years. My family moved here before I did and I was fortunately granted permission to join them. Many of my friends were separated from their families during their journeys or after arriving here because without legal papers they cannot leave Spain. Every resource of value was taken from our Africa and we come here to have a better life. We’ve made this barrio our home. We bring our music, our food our culture and our love.

What do you want members of my community to know about yours?

Baye Fall culture is about respect, love and valor. We don’t steal. We love our neighbors. If we see one of our own misbehave, we confront them and put them on the right path. (During our conversation one of Moha’s peers catcalled a passerby and was swiftly berated by the group, exemplifying these principles.) We believe in nonviolence and love. We’re open to outsiders. See him? My white friend below, we’re teaching him Baye Fall. We don’t fight, when we do it’s not with the world but within ourselves. “Su lucha es suya misma”

What is a typical day like on the corner? What qualities have helped you survive here?

“Si no trapicheos, no comes” – If we don’t hustle, we can’t eat.

Many are obligated to stay in the game, whether or not it’s what we want. We meet a lot of people this way. On a typical day we can work the corners and do our parts in peace and there is no problem. Sometimes we are confronted by the police. I have seen many friends detained and disappeared for not having their legal documents. Without my documents I would not have the freedom and peace that I am blessed with now. To avoid police, it helps to change our clothes several times throughout the day. Without papers, one must find alternatives to contracted work. Many of us have mastered a trade or art form. We’re painters, drummers, singers, sculptors, woodworkers. We are many things. We gather on Sundays to teach our skills to each other and anyone else who seeks it.

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The police interrogating my African neighbors in a previous Lavapies apartment

What can be done to improve the assimilation process in the future?

We must be reminded that we are all equal. That we can forget our differences. Opportunities that we create ourselves cannot be taken away from us. We must not fall weak and be foolish. We must be able to ask for help when we need it and then give it back.

What is your happiest memory in the barrio?

There is a yearly grand party of Baye Falls. The exact date depends on the lunar cycle; this past year it was in November. People come from all over to celebrate and dance in the streets. It is beautiful.

How do you feel that Lavapiés is now becoming a “trendy” neighborhood? Are you concerned that it will become gentrified and lose its charm and essence?

The Spanish youth that live in the barrio are not affecting it in a negative way. The students and artists are innovative and have many ideas that could work. They have clear hearts and have Baye Fall in them even if they don’t know it. Lavapiés is the heart of Madrid, let’s not forget that.

Playing music in Lavapiés

Please share any comments you may have, and stay tuned – Dan will be providing us with more special articles like this one over the coming months.

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