In the middle of Madrid’s Chamberí neighborhood, surrounded by offices and trendy cafés, lies a not-so-well-kept secret. It’s called Fismuler, and from the outside it doesn’t look like much. Austere gray walls and windows barred by steel disguise what lies within. A minimalist sign quietly announces its name. If you didn’t know what you were looking for, you might not notice it at all.
Of course, plenty of people are already in the know; those with good taste and a penchant for fine dining have been flocking to Fismuler for months now. But it’s much more than just a trendy hotspot enjoying a fleeting moment in the spotlight. Beyond the deceptive facade and the impeccable interior, this place has something special that sets it apart from the rest.
Where culinary ingenuity meets quality ingredients
It may seem trite to say that a restaurant’s menu should be its main attraction. But in a world where culinary success increasingly depends on Instagram followers and online reputation, sometimes the actual food gets lost in the shuffle. Not here.
Chefs Nino Reduello and Patxi Zumárraga have created a fantastic fusion of flavors, with classic Spanish ingredients at its heart. Seafood figures prominently, as do fresh veggies and strong spices. The flavors are intense and the combinations daring, while maintaining a delicacy that matches the careful presentation. It’s rich, but not heavy. Creative, but not inaccessible. Familiar, but unlike anything you’ve ever tasted before.
I’m a big believer in the theory that a restaurant’s quality can be revealed by what they bring you to snack on. Be it bread, olives, or potato chips, the first thing brought to the table is often a telling sign of what’s to come. At Fismuler, you’re greeted by warm fresh bread and a hunk of unpasteurized, salted butter—some of the best butter I’ve ever had, in fact. Before I even examined the menu, the bar was already set high.
Light, fresh, and flavorful
To begin, the burrata salad is an absolute must: juicy fresh figs and incredibly light burrata with greens, sunflower seeds, and crispy seaweed. If you’re feeling adventurous, go for the erizo del Cantábrico (sea urchin). Served on a bed of river stones (or wild plants, pictured below), it’s just as surprising on the palette as it is on the eyes. The urchin is drowned in a soft and creamy sauce with an entirely unique taste.
For something a bit lighter, try the semi-cured dorada (sea bream). It’s served in impossibly thin, translucent slices, topped by red grapes, Marcona almonds, onions, herbs, olive oil, and surprisingly potent spices. All of these assertive flavors combine to create a dish that’s both delicate and intense.
A whole new kind of comfort food
The heartier dishes are equally interesting. Highlights include the tortilla de ortiguillas, an omelet filled with sea anemone and sweet and sour sauce. Sound weird? It is. The anemone has a crunchy texture and a distinctive taste that you might not think would pair well with the other ingredients—but somehow it works perfectly.
Chef Nino Reduello himself told us the rice with clams comes straight from his mother’s kitchen, so how could we resist? It arrived in a greenish broth, with crispy fried artichokes and abundant garlic. Although rice, clams, and artichokes are staples of Spanish cuisine, I’d never seen them combined quite like this. It did indeed taste like something your mom might cook up—if your mom were a world-class chef, that is.
From the list of main dishes, we tried the grilled corvina (sea bass) with cole crops, which came with a delightfully spicy orange sauce. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, tender and flavorful without being overpowering. The soft and smoky vegetables were the ideal companion.
Fismuler’s grand finale
You simply cannot leave Fismuler without trying their cheesecake. I don’t care if you think you’re too full for another bite; make room. It’s nothing like New York cheesecake, nor the gelatinous concoction you’ll often find in Spain. Light and custardy, it has an unmistakeably cheesy flavor. The cookie crust is crumbly and buttery, just like it should be. Yet another perfectly balanced creation.
Finally, it has to be said that the drink selection here is also top-notch. A carefully selected wine list is complemented by house-infused spirits and pitchers of fruity cocktails. And if you’re not in the mood for alcohol, order a glass of homemade lemonade: refreshing and herbal, slightly fizzy and not too sweet.
An unbeatable ambience
The restaurant’s incredible menu is complemented by a Nordic aesthetic of exposed brick and wood. It’s industrial and minimalist, yet simultaneously rustic and warm. Despite the fact that it’s below street level, the whole place is well-lit and open. And as if that weren’t enough, they’ve got a great playlist.
Fismuler is committed to sustainability and organic ingredients, so the cuisine is good for your conscience, too. Other guiding principles include creativity, simplicity, and respect for the food itself. All of this is reflected not only on the menu, but in the sensation the whole experience imparts. It’s a place to relax, take your time, and savor each bite.
Although the prices are a bit higher than average, you get what you pay for—and here you get amazing quality, a lovely atmosphere, and an overall experience that’s simply unmatched. In fact, after just one lunch, this place has already won a spot among my favorite restaurants in Madrid. If you’re looking for the perfect place to bring visitors, celebrate something special, or just treat yourself to a good meal, Fismuler delivers. And then some.
