If you’re looking for something as impressive as the Prado or the Reina Sofia, but off-the-beaten-path, it’s El Matadero. The perfect place to spend a leisurely afternoon alone or with friends in Madrid, here you can calmly diddle daddle through a maze of art exhibits and designer market stands. Then, enjoy a café con leche or a cold Madrid brew outside. El Matadero has it all–from Spain’s national dance company performances to international innovation conferences.

Just a 10-minute subway ride from Sol, El Matadero is a culture/innovation hub and architectural treasure. The former slaughterhouse (hence, the name) is now a public-private entity offering book-readings, theater and music performances, photography exhibits and independent cinema on a nightly basis, most of which are free. 

on día internacional de la danza, image from Matadero’s Facebook page

Not to be compared with any other space in the city, El Matadero is an ambitious project and the fruit of a most innovative and modern Madrid. This cultural center also provides ongoing activities for families as well as a space for local innovators to develop their projects, all of which you can see while wandering through its enormous labyrinth of warehouses (naves) and open work spaces. 

There are six naves, each used for a different purpose. For example, the Nave Español holds theater and dance performances. The Cineteca showcases international and independent film festivals. The Música Nave holds concerts and recording studios.

The old oven has now been usurped by the café, La Cantina, that sells locally produced food and wines, and has the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to stay forever. Plus, it has one of the best terrazas (outdoor seating areas) in all of Madrid, in my opinion at least.

When the weather’s nice, my husband and I like to go there by bike; it’s a breezy 30-minute ride from Principe Pio along Madrid’s river (Madrid Río), which the city has done an amazing job of revamping. The river is now lined with bike and pedestrian paths, unique bridges, playgrounds (for grown-ups too!), street workout equipment, sprawling green zones and sprinkler areas. Plus it’s a straight shot to El Matadero.

Last summer I took my sister, Amanda, from New York, to El Matadero for the whole afternoon. We first slipped into what used to be the slaughterhouse’s fridge area, where an odd fire exhibit was being showcased. When we stepped out onto the courtyard, a group of flamenco dancers were zapateando (stomping) and smoking in a circle, getting ready to go on stage in the Nave Español. Then we parked ourselves at La Cantina for a glass of wine and a plate of delicious vegetable dishes made from Madrid’s local gardens.

Amanda was amazed how all of this was so open to the public, and that it wasn’t even packed. She said that if this were to be opened in Brooklyn, lines would be stretching to Queens.

History

El Matadero was built in the 1920s as a pig slaughterhouse, and was turned into a cultural center in 2006. When they renovated the slaughterhouse, the goal was to keep the original columns, the beams, the ovens and exterior structure in tact. For example, the first room you see on the left of the entrance used to be the freezer. Now it’s an exhibition space. The dark, sinister feel makes you ponder what really went on in there. The interior was designed to be versatile and sustainable — most of the walls can be rolled away or folded up to make way for projects and events of all scale.

What to do?

Even if you’re in Madrid for a few days, don’t be intimidated by the amount of things going on. I highly recommend checking out their activities list (which is in English) or just stopping by to see the architecture and the vibe. As you stroll through the different spaces, you’ll stumble upon anything from an indoor garden to a conference on new technology. Activities are open to the public in the afternoon, and you’re free to walk around the plaza, find a nook to study in or have a drink at the café anytime.

What’s new?

Since October 2013, El Matadero has its own independent market—El Mercado Central de Diseño.

El Matadero’s monthly market–El Mercado Central de Diseño—is one of Madrid’s first design markets for entrepreneurs in the worlds of fashion, design and arts & crafts. During the two-day market, various free music concerts and events are put on as well, making it a hot spot to go with friends on the weekend!

Information:

El Matadero
Facebook
Where: Paseo de la Chopera 14 Metro: Legazpi (line 3, yellow)
Hours: Tuesday to Friday from 4pm to 10pm Saturday to Sunday from 11am to 10pm
Telephone: 915 17 73 09

Madrid has magnificent rooftop bars, and you’ll find them perched atop unexpected places. Here’s round one of my favorites. What’s more, all of these places are within walking distance from one another, so you could turn this list into a rooftop bar crawl if you had the whole day to spend atop buildings, watching the sky change colors. Here’s a list of Madrid’s best rooftop bar.

Image from Gau&Café’s Facebook page

Madrid’s Best Rooftop Bars

1. Gau&Café: on top of a university

Considered one of 8 Hidden Gems in Madrid by the Guardian newspaper, this rooftop bar truly deserves first place on my list. Tucked away on a side street in Lavapiés, Gau&Cafe rests atop one of UNED University’s historic campus buildings.  As you enter the university and walk up four flights of stairs, you’d never imagine that Gau&Café would be so chic, inviting and beautiful–you’d never even know it was there. The space is divided into two sections: one for drinks, and one for dinner. In the drink section, you can order a delicious 8€ hamburger. If you’re looking for a sit-down dinner, do make a reservation (the menu features lots of local, seasonal products, namely zucchini, cous cous, eggplant and hummus dishes).

2. Casa de Granada: on top of a residential building

At home in the sky, this rooftop bar holds a special place in my heart as it will always be the first rooftop I ever went to in Madrid. Casa de Granada is essentially a regular Spanish restaurant, situated on a roof that has outdoor seating and an enclosed area. Nibble on traditional Spanish dishes as you look out on Madrid’s short-story buildings, plazas, and terracotta-tiled roofs. You may also catch women hanging clothes out to dry and maybe even listen in on the neighbour’s telephone conversation. Although Casa de Granada has recently renovated, it’s maintained its nonchalant style which is what makes it fun. When it comes to food, you should stick to the Spanish staples—croquetas, huevos rotos, pimientos de padrón, calamares, you name it.

3. Mercado de San Antón: on top of a gourmet market

This gourmet market is the hipper version of its uber-upscale pedestrian competitor, Mercado de San Miguel. In other words, Mercado de San Antón is infinitely cooler and more enjoyable. First of all, it’s in Chueca (enough said). Secondly, it has three floors and therefore much more seating area. And then there’s a stunning rooftop bar, perfect for people-watching! What’s more, the rooftop bar’s prices are reasonable; a glass of wine costs the same as at any other bar on street level. So why not pop up to the roof and have your drink there? Sometimes they have free live music too.

image from www.azoteadelcirculo.com

4. Tartan Roof: on top of Círculo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Building )

The sky is the canvas atop this fine arts institution. Overlooking the Castellana and Plaza de Cibeles, and perched on top of the exquisite Circulo de Bellas Artes building, it’s no wonder why Tartan Roof has the most breathtaking views out of all on this list. For 3€, anyone can go up to the roof to have a look. The fee is waved if you have dinner reservations (an absolute must). My friend’s earlier post says it all here. This is also a really popular place for cocktails, though slightly expensive, you’re paying for the view, not the drink itself. The first time I went to this roof was on Día de la Música (Music Day). The Azotea (rooftop) was participating by holding a free swing and tap dance performance. It was incredible to be up there looking out on Madrid’s skyline.

Madrid’s best roo

If you’re looking for more, here’s Madrid’s best rooftops, Round 2 and Round 3! 

And feel free to let us know about your favorite Madrid rooftop bars!

Aió in Sardinian means “let’s go” (or “venga vamos”  in Spanish). Most likely, Andrea and Marcelo were thinking of this very expression when they decided to open a restaurant in Madrid three years ago. These two friends have brought their hometown of Sardinia with them to Malasaña, where they’ve created a magnificent combination of Italian food and true madrileño ambiance. It is basically an extraordinary place.

It was love at first sight when I came here with my friend, Nina, from Austria. We had a menú del dia for 9,50€ (11.50€ on weekends and holidays) that includes two dishes, a drink and dessert. They also have a pizza menu that comes with a salad, large pizza, drink and coffee for 10,50€; and a Sardinian menu with different regional dishes for 14€. On the weekends, it’s better to make a reservation.

We ordered fresh pasta with fresh tomato and basil; a salad and a burger with caramelized onions and homemade fries. Only if the pictures could tell you how good they tasted.

When I travel outside Spain, I always like to look for local spots, and the best indication of that is always by seeing locals themselves. Similarly, when I’m in Madrid and I go to an Italian restaurant, I like to see Italian patrons–to me that’s a sign of authenticity. At Aió , you’ll find people from all over the world, yet the clientele’s dominant nationality is Italian, by far.

You’ll also find a large biking community here. Users and lovers can find bikes hanging on the walls. Although they’re nice decoration, the real reason they’re on display is because they’re for sale. However, if you’re already happy with the bike you own, you can also park it here, as Aío’s downstairs area is a free bike drop-off point. 

Malasaña is my favorite neighbourhood to get a drink at after work. Thanks to Aío, the neighbourhood has just gotten even better. On Thursdays at 9pm (officially at 8:30pm), they offer an all-you-can-eat Italian buffet, called Aperaió. It only costs 4.50€, including the drink of your choice. Last night, I went with my wife, Daphne, to check out the buffet. The first thing we noticed was that almost everyone was drinking the Aperol Spritz, the popular Italian aperitif that combines seltzer, champagne, Aperol, a slice of orange and plenty of ice. The drink is strong and stringent, but a feel-good hit for summer.

For this modest price, I thought the food wasn’t going to blow my socks off. But I couldn’t have been more wrong. We were lucky enough to grab a seat right by the counter. As the waiters brought out dish after dish of mouth-watering Italian goodness, the patrons swarmed around the food and served themselves heaps of rice, pasta, salad and pizza. Although it was all good, the pasta was the star dish; it was creamy mushroom mini-shell pasta that the crowd just couldn’t get enough of.

The salad was far from your average ensalada mixta, as it came with all types of greens, onions, green bell peppers, cucumbers, apples, raisins and topped with a deliciously sweet vinaigrette dressing. This is officially the best deal you can find in Madrid on food and drinks.

We barely missed the pizza because it flew off the counter in a matter of seconds (that’s why there’s no picture, so you’ll have to go see for yourself!).

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Address: Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo 25
Tlfn:  910 09 64 69
Hours: M-F 9.00-1.30 /S-S 10.00-2.00
Breakfast: M-F 9.00-13.00 /S-S 10.00-13.00
Lunch: M-F 13.00-16.00
Aperaió (buffet): Thursdays at 20:30

Craving to nibble on some fine Asian dishes? Go dine at Kintaro, where you’ll find infinitely scrumptious Japanese and Chinese food, and horrendous service.

“This place is like heaven.” “Oh my God.” “This is the most amazing place I’ve ever been to in my entire life.” “It’s like paradise.”

That’s what we were all saying the first time we went to Kintaro, an all-you-can-eat buffet of delicious Japanese and Chinese food costing 15.80€ per person (9€ for lunch during weekdays). In fact, this article is the fruit of a collaboration between four friends (Edison, Kyle, James and Daphne) who regularly dine at Kintaro together.

Kintaro has its own peculiar charm. You sit beside a conveyor belt that sends out different types of Asian delights, from spicy tuna rolls to roasted duck, all night long. And there’s no waiting; the food just keeps coming. It’s like diving into a grown-up carousel, where sweet and savoury exotic treats circle round and round you all within arm’s reach.

We’ve developed a special technique when it comes to eating at Kintaro: first, pack in as many sushi rolls, plates of beef and dumplings as possible; then, move on to dessert — ice cream and fruit; and then there’s round two of the same process, followed by round three if we’re really in the zone.

Prior to this recent expedition to Kintaro, Edison and James had just helped Kyle move out of his apartment (carrying boxes up- and downstairs for hours definitely builds up an appetite) and they were famished. Thus, an all-night buffet was a godsend.

But for anyone with an appetite, Kintaro is close to heaven indeed. When we were university students in Madrid, the habitually philosophizing, dreadlock-sporting and hacky sack-playing crowd called this place home — it was the hotspot when the typical gluttonous cravings could no longer be quenched by junkfood. Just imagine.

Now, the only reason you should ever go there is if you love eating good quality Japanese and Chinese food, for hours upon hours, because that’s all Kintaro has to offer. Although the food options are tantalizing and the atmosphere sufficiently refined, the service is appalling. If you’re not a champion eater, you’re either going to feel guilty about not knowing how to pace yourself, or because you went to a place where the waiters tried to push you out as fast as possible.

During this last visit to Kintaro, the service got particularly ugly, as three different waiters decided to take turns asking us if we were done, every minute. Given this is a buffet, the waiters’ asking us if we were finished a million times was virtually our only contact with them, and it was exasperating. By the end, we felt like a screeching broken record saying “no, we’re not done yet,” over and over again. To say nothing of one of our fellow diners who at one point wanted to punch a certain waiter that had just gotten asked his fifth consecutive “Are you done?” We’d like to add that this attitude displayed by the waiters is nothing new, though usually they are not as obnoxiously insistent.

Another friend told us a similar story. One time, while she and her friends were evidently still stuffing themselves, the waiter came up to them out of nowhere and planted the bill on the table, catching them completely off guard. The restaurant wasn’t closing, so it felt like they were being kicked out. To make matters worse, the waiters came every other minute to see if they’d paid.

After reading this, you may be wondering, why on earth would someone go here if the service is so bad? Precisely because the food is so exquisite and abundant. So, if you can put up with the bad service and are craving for an unlimited amount of Asian cuisine,  go check it out!

Kintaro

Address: Calle de Fernández de la Hoz 70
Metro: Gregorio Marañón
Price: 15.80€ for an all-you-can-eat Japanese/Chinese dinner buffet, and 9€ for lunch (the slightly over-priced drinks aren’t included in either case)

More Asian restaurants featured on Naked Madrid:

• Ramen Kagura – Madrid’s (almost) perfect ramen bar
• Sumo – This Japanese restaurant’s name says it all
• Tuk Tuk – Asian-inspired street food
• Chuka Ramen Bar – Madrid’s hottest ramen restaurant
• Hattori Hanzo – Japanese food, straight up. No sushi.
• Nippon 2 – top quality yet affordable sushi, finally!
• Soy Kitchen – a fusion of Asian flavors
• Karachai – A cozy and elegant Thai restaurant in Alonso Martínez

As you may already know, I like getting out of the city from time to time. Last week I wrote a post about the orange-colored cliffs at El Barranco de la Hoz, and today I’d like to introduce you to another place that may be unknown to you. Built in the 12th century, Monasterio de Piedra (Stone Monastery) is situated in a natural park in Zaragoza (a province northeast of Madrid), which is inundated by misty waterfalls, rivers and streams that give you goosebumps.

Our visit to Monasterio de Piedra started a few weeks ago, when my friends and I were preparing a two-day trip outside the city. When one of my friends suggested we go here, I stared at him with a puzzled look on my face.  If we’re going to pay 15€, it better be good. Actually, it better be incredible, I thought. Let’s see what happens…

As soon as we entered the park, we walked down a bunch of steps and came across the first wow in our path. The Wilful Waterfall (in Spanish, “La cascada Caprichosa) stood in front of us. As you look up at the cascading giant,  you see many different types of green and hear the sound of the water crashing into the river and continuing on its way. Although there were several other groups of visitors at the site, it never felt crowded.

The “Río Piedra” (Stone river) is guilty of having formed this spectacular landscape of waterfalls and cozy natural spots.

As we moved along the río piedra and stumbled upon a few more wows, we eventually got close up to the tallest waterfall in Spain: “La cola del caballo” (or, in English, the horse tail waterfall). It’s an incredible 50m fall which makes you feel fear, awe and calmness, in that order.

We saw the “Cascada” from every angle. The most impressive moment was being behind it, inside the cave, feeling the strength of the water falling in your face.

Although we only walked through the park, Monasterio de Piedra also has a magnificent hotel that boasts a spa and two restaurants, fit for weddings and banquets of all kinds. Not to mention, the Monastery itself is open to the public.

Where:

Nuévalos (Zaragoza)

229 kilometres from Madrid

Website:

www.monasteriopiedra.com

How to get there from Madrid

Growing up at my father’s coffee shop in New York — the Hungarian Pastry Shop — I remember there was a poster on the wall that featured 50 coffee shops around the world where you can think. 

Since I arrived in Madrid seven years ago, I’ve always thought that Pepe Botella should be on that poster, photographed alongside the other perfect cafés from Tel Aviv to Reykjavik.

Peer through the bay window at passersby in Plaza de Dos de Mayo in Malasaña

In my mind, cafés aren’t about who has the prettiest foam; cafés should make you feel at home. I first fell in love with Pepe Botella when I was a student. I used to bring my laptop there on Saturdays and Sundays during lunchtime when it was empty, and let the afternoon go by. Ever since, Pepe Botella has been the café I most enjoy going to with friends, family, or alone.

It just fits, whether I want to peer through the window with a coffee or a glass of wine, or disappear onto the red velvet benches in the back with a conversation or the newspaper. It’s the kind of place that invites you to stay for hours. And whenever my sister, Amanda, visits me, this is our spot. She likes to linger there as much as I do.

Pepe Botella is situated in the infamous Plaza del Dos de Mayo, named in honor of the Madrileños who rose against Napoleon on May 2nd in 1802, as well as home to Madrid’s breaking experimental movement in the eighties called La Movida Madrileña. 

The café is named after Napoleon’s brother, José I Bonaparte, who was dubbed Pepe Botella in Spain for his exorbitant drinking habits (Pepe is the Spanish nickname for Jose).

And Plaza del Dos de Mayo is nestled between the streets of Malasaña, Madrid’s trendiest neighborhood that boasts endless cafés and bars. But for me, Pepe is the best.

Also, their coffees come with delicious cookies (called pastas). Every time I ask the waiters for the chocolate ones, they give me two! And their wine comes with blue chips.

I’ve never had cocktails there, but I can say that the tables around me usually move on to the gin & tonics by 7pm.

Café Pepe Botella

• Facebook & Instagram
• Address: c/ San Andrés, 12
• Metro: Tribunal, Noviciado, Bilbao

What to see: 

The breathtakingly beautiful city of Toledo lies to the south of Madrid and was Spain’s former capital. Although there are plenty of things to do here, nothing beats getting lost amidst Toledo’s tiny and windy streets.

If you’re looking for a gift (check out Best Gifts from Madrid list), Toledo is well known for its mazapán (marzipan) and navajas (Swiss army and pocket knives), which can be found throughout the city.

How to get there:

• By high speed train (AVE)

Depart from: Atocha AVE station (take metro line 1 to Atocha Renfe)
Schedule:
Departure (Madrid-Toledo horarios y precios (RENFE))
Return (Toledo-Madrid horarios y precios (RENFE))
Duration: approx. 35 min
Price:  12,70€ (round trip 25,40€).

*Note. You will have to walk 15 min or take another bus to get to the center.

• By bus

Depart from: Plaza Elíptica bus station
Schedule:
Departure (Madrid-Toledo horarios y precios (ALSA))
Return (Toledo-Madrid horarios y precios (ALSA))
Duration: approx. 1 hour
Price: 5,63€ (round-trip 11,26€). Buy tickets on the bus.

 Where to find it on a map:

What to see:

El Escorial is famous for its beautiful Monasterio which was built between 1563 and 1584. We recommend going inside the monastery, even though the entrance fee costs €10.

Once you’ve visited the monument, it’s absolutely necessary to take a walk around the charming little town. Grab a seat at a terraza and enjoy the pure air of the city’s mountains, known as la sierra de Madrid.

How to get there:

• By cercanías train (map)

Depart from: Sol, take Cercanías Line C3
Schedule:
Departure (Horario Sol-El Escorial)
Return (Horario El Escorial-Sol)
Duration:  approx. 1 hour
Price: 5,40€ (round trip 10,80€). Buy tickets from machines inside Sol’s train station.

*Note: you will have to walk 15 min or take another bus to get to the center.

• By bus

Depart from: Moncloa, take bus line 661
Schedule:
Bus line 661  (every 10-15 min)
Bus line 664  (every 10-15 min)
Duration: approx. 1 hour
Price: 4,20€ (round trip 8,40€). Buy tickets on the bus.

Where to find it on a map:

What to see:

In this thousand-year-old city, you’ll find one of the most famous Roman aqueducts in the world, el acueducto de Segovia, as well as the magnificent castle, Alcazar, which really resembles a castle from Disney World.

More importantly, while you’re in Segovia you must try their star dish – cochinillo asado – roasted suckling pig which is cooked so tender that it’s tradition for the waiters to slice it in front of you with the side of a plate.

Although I haven’t succeeded in finding Segovia’s best cochinillo, I highly recommend going to the restaurant Candido which is easy to find as it’s situated in the Aqueduct’s plaza and its ambiance is very special.

How to get there:

• By high speed train (AVE)

Depart from: Chamartín train station
Schedule:
Departure (Madrid-Segovia horarios y precios (RENFE))
Return (Segovia-Madrid horarios y precios (RENFE))
Duration: approx. 30 min
Price: 12,70€ (round trip approx. 25€).

*Note. Sometimes you can find special offers on the website.

• By bus

Depart from: Príncipe Pío bus station
Schedule:
Departure (Madrid-Segovia horarios y precios (La Sepulvedana))
Return (Segovia-Madrid horarios y precios (La Sepulvedana))
Duration: approx. 1 hour 15 min
Price: 8,09€ (round trip 16€)

Where to find it on a map:

Image from wikipedia

Grab a round of imported German beers at wholesale price, share a bottle of local Spanish wine for as little as 2€ (bottled and corked right before your eyes), and all the while, snack on kalamata olives, manchego cheese or even sushi. How nice does that sound?

Madrid’s Mercado de San Fernando, or “el mercado de Lavapiés”, as it is more commonly known, is a vibrant indoor market where bars selling imported German beers, local Spanish wines, Italian breads, sushi, homemade Greek food, oysters and much, much more are nestled in right alongside the cobbler, grocer and butcher.

Local Spanish wines for less than 5E , bottled and corked right before your eyes. Makes for a perfect gift.

Greek Kalamata Olives, my favorite

As in all big cities, neighborhoods go in and out of style as fast as Zara’s storefronts. Madrid is no exception. Once considered a dodgier side of town, Lavapies is fast becoming the city’s newest nightlife destination, attracting Madrid’s trendiest young hipster crowds. Great restaurants and bars, from urban chic to authentic Moroccan, are interspersed within the demographic makeup of the neighborhood. And the prices are still modest in comparison to other hotspots like Malasaña and Chueca.

Colorful handmade leather goods

All neighborhoods of Madrid have their local markets. Many, especially in the more upscale areas, have been refurbished and turned into fashionable displays of Spain’s haute cuisine, such as Mercado de San Miguel and Mercado de San Anton. But in 2012, Mercado de San Fernando — el mercado de Lavapiés — decided to reinvent itself making it more reflective of the eclectic tastes of its host neighborhood. Unlike the others, Lavapiés’ market has managed to embrace the new while maintaining its laid-back, local and traditional essence.

the old-fashioned Bar Barroso isn’t going anywhere!

the “ecological” fruit seller

The streets of Lavapiés are lined with Indian restaurants, hipster cafés and independent boutiques, and its market is just as diverse as all the small alleys and plazuelas surrounding it. Here you will find a wonderful mix of traditional Spanish shops and foreign options. The fruit-seller and the good old Bar Barroso blend happily together with the higher-end oyster/wine bar, Bond 40, and the stylish leather handbag maker.

Cocktails and oysters

oyster bar and butcher shop sit side by side

When I first went to Mercado de San Fernando, it was by chance. I was walking up Calle Embajadores and stumbled upon a rather austere building with a grey facade. Little did I know that I was about to slip through the market’s winding aisles to discover stands selling quiches and empanadas, as well as full bars crowded with patrons from all walks of life–families with children, the older generation, groups of hipsters, foreigners and locals alike.

Homemade food from quiche to meatballs

Sushi!

I like to start off by browsing through the market’s many stands, and graze a bit before I settle down at the German bar for an imported beer. Then I head over to the Greek’s for dinner–moussaka, kalamata olives, feta cheese and spinach pie. It just doesn’t get any better than that. For me, that is. For you, who knows?

irresistible Greek food

Though the possibilities are endless when it comes to food, here you can expect, above all, a great ambience. Judging from the live music and boisterous company I experienced the last time I went, it’s safe to say that the word is out.

Oysters, clams and pimientos de padron

bread and empanadas… mmmm

the quintessential Spanish butcher

While I think the monthly Mercado de Motores is Madrid’s “coolest” market, Mercado de San Fernando is much different. This one’s open every day and it’s totally unexpected!

Spanish-style treats and snacks

Mercado de San Fernando/Lavapiés’ facade on calle Embajadores, 41

Plus, on Sundays they throw different events, such as Swing Dancing and Salsa Lessons (free…)!

Information:

Schedule:

• Mon: Fri: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm, 5:00 pm – 9:00 pm
• Sat: 10:00 am – 5:00 pm
• Sun: 11:00 am – 5:00 pm